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December 5, 2011

This is the second challenge from Volvo for the Biggest Fan in the Big East. I got a lot of great feedback when I posed the topic last week. The losses of so many old haunts had me step out on the porch and pour one out for the collective losses. The Decade, Calicos, Zelda’s, CJ’s, Thirsty’s, Upstage, Electric Banana, Syria Mosque, Graffiti, and so many  others — all gone.

When my wife and I were still dating, we took a trip to Pittsburgh for a weekend. A friend was graduating from law school, and there was already plenty of reminiscing happening with my friends. As we were driving around on the second day there, I was pointing out another place — along with an anecdote of why I mentioned it — she asked me, “Why do all of these stories start with, ‘One night we were so…’?”

“Um, just the good ones,” was the only response I could offer.

And she still married me.

Here’s the question as a refresher.

Pick 5 or more things that you have to do when you return to you’re Alma Mater (places to see, best bars, best food, cool places on campus etc.).

The trick is “have” to do versus time to do. There’s only so many places you can go to have a bite or get a drink in a day — or even two. Still, when I have a chance to be in Oakland for a little while there are certain things I feel that must be done or that I get ticked that I missed a chance to do.

As an urban campus, Pitt is condensed (PDF). Now if you were an engineer or psych major there are particular buildings you may (or may not) want to go past. But as a rule, this is an easy path to hit some key spots and walk past a few others. Find a place. Park your car — hopefully an S60. (I am so looking forward to driving this car around Pittsburgh for a weekend in January.) Feed the meter if you have to, and just walk.

1. Wander over to the old Forbes Field Wall, tap Home Plate in Posvar Hall, stop by the Panther in front of the Student Union and then go to the Cathedral.

I’m not a Pirates fan. I didn’t grow up in Pittsburgh. I am a baseball fan, and remnants of old Forbes Field were always incredibly cool to me. When I was at Pitt in the late-80s and early 90s, aside from a historical marker like this revised one:

You would not have even noticed the old brick wall at the southeastern edge of the campus. Ivy covered red brick section that you would pass and easily miss. But once you knew what it was, it became something else.

It is still so cool to just walk over to it and walk along the wall. Trying to envision Forbes Field right up against the Pitt campus. The players who roamed in the spot. It is something that connects with the history. In recent years they have done quite a bit to make it more of a memorial and show the history. It still comes down to that wall.

Then it is time to trace your way into Posvar Hall to find home plate.

The long-told story has always been that the location of home plate had to be moved to avoid being in the women’s bathroom. You can’t imagine how disappointed I am to find out that this is apparently a myth.

From there, it is a walk past Hillman Library and the outdoor vendor selling Pitt gear from the back of a truck since I was a sophomore. He is parked right in front of the William Pitt (Student) Union. There is an addition that my kids love. The Panther.

Officially, it is called the Millenium Panther (did not know that). It was added in 2001.

And then you look across the street:

The lodestone of the school. The Cathedral of Learning always the landmark to guide you back to campus. And now, with falcons. I spent so much time in the Cathedral. Studying in the Commons, pulling the all-nighters there during finals week, and rolling the occasional penny to disturb the late night quiet). Do they still use the fireplaces in the winter months?

Just the center of the campus, and when Pitt wins, the top is bathed in the golden glow of victory lights.

During my final couple years at Pitt, Paul Hackett was the head coach in football. Needless to say, there weren’t many good times tied to the football team. More often than not, the games ended in disappointment. I don’t even remember which game it was, but it was an actual win late in the season. We had been enjoying that feeling at C.J.’s afterwards — and for quite a while. A buddy and I headed towards North Oakland where I lived to grab some food and relax at my place before going back out on a Saturday night. Since it was early evening in November, it was dark. As we staggered past the Cathedral, we looked up at it and were dumbfounded. Absolutely confused. Why was the Cathedral lit like that? What did it mean? It had been so long since there was a Pitt win, combined with our heavily inebriated state that we couldn’t make the connection. That sums up the Paul Hackett era for me.

2. The O

The Original Hot Dog Shop. The Dirty O, Essie’s Original Hot Dog Shop. Whatever you call it, everyone in Pittsburgh knows what it is and where it is.

I loved having mine with the gravy-like substance they offered. Most of my friends preferred the cheese-esque option.

I have to say, that these don’t look anywhere nearly greasy enough. An always amusing thing is to go to the O during the first day when freshmen are moving into the dorms. The non-natives go there because someone they knew said they really should. They look up on the wall and see the sizes of the baskets. First they bitch a little about how expensive it is, and order without realizing just how high they pile the fries in the basket. The look on their faces is always worth it.

Late on a Friday or Saturday night, the O was almost mandatory. The real debate was whether to eat there or lug them back to someone’s place. You just did not want to be the one stuck with the lingering grease smell and the remains the next morning.

3. Uncle Sam’s

Another tradition in Oakland. Uncle Sam’s has mostly stuck to what they do best for over 25 years (salads?). Just make subs. Really, really good subs. There is so much that just hasn’t changed when you go there. It’s loud. Busy. They get you in, get you out. My favorite place to grab lunch on campus. I still love it when there is time to grab a chicken cheese steak before going up to the Pete.

4. Hemingway’s

When I was at Pitt, Hemingways was a halfway decent restaurant in a great location. It was the place you went to because A) your parents were visiting and you didn’t know where else to go close by that you could have a sit down meal or B) because you were under 21 and planned to sneak into C.J. Barney’s through the shared hallway.

Now, it is a very excellent college bar. There’s a solid selection of beers, and a good vibe in the place. It’s still a little weird when I think about it. If you can get to one of the tables right by the front window, the people watching on Forbes Avenue is outstanding while still being a part of everything inside.

4. Dave & Andy’s Ice Cream

I need somewhere to take my kids. And Dave & Andy’s is actually somewhere in Oakland I can take them. I love their milkshakes. I’m starting to drool just thinking about them. All the ice-cream is  fresh. All made on site. The waffle cones. Oh, and the added plus of the liquor store being one or two doors down.

5. Pamela’s

More food. Let me keep it simple. You. Need. These. Pancakes.

The facade outside has changed over the years, but not the lines on the weekends or the quality of the breakfast. Everyone will tell you to get their pancakes. Don’t try to be clever and go for something else. Get the pancakes. Oh, and bring cash.

6. Phantom of the Attic

Didn’t see this one coming, did you? As much money as I spent on drinking while at Pitt, my worst drug was my comic book addiction. Phantom has moved a few times over the past 20 years. But never away from South Craig Street. They know that location puts them in the sweet spot between the geeks at Pitt and Carnegie Mellon.

The owner of the Phantom, Jeff, is one of the nicest guys I’ve met. It’s been more than 10 years since I was a regular, and he still knows me and will talk (which may also be a reflection of just how much money I spent there). And yes, there is a passing resemblance to the Comic Book Guy.

7. Peter’s Pub

This is really the only bar in the campus part of Oakland that has withstood the test of time. It was there before I came to Pitt. It is still there. So many others have fallen or changed. Peter’s endures. That alone, on a campus that has changed so much in recent years, makes it worth stopping in for a beer.

Look at this bar. The taps, some of the bottles and the prices have changed, but that is the same bar. The same wood paneling. The same stuff on the wall. The same layout that I remember from being at Pitt. That counts for something.

The others that didn’t quite make the list — and I feel guilty about leaving them off the list:

Primanti Bros. in Oakland

This was tough. Another staple, and truly a Pittsburgh classic. Whether it is a Pitt game or a Steeler game, when they do one of those bridge shots of local food, it is inevitably a Primanti’s sandwich they feature. Those fries on the inside, were unique. Now it is often copied — but never duplicated. At the same time, you can now go to a Primanti’s in Florida. So, it loses some of it’s special allure. Especially when I can even stop off in Grove City while driving on I-80 to grab one. Not quite the same.

Chief’s and Mitchell’s/Charlie’s

I lived in North Oakland once I moved off-campus. These places were staples. Stumbling distance from where I lived. Loved them. Especially Mitchell’s and Charlie’s. But I can’t say I’ve been back in quite some time. Seems like a good idea, but it never quite happens. Maybe next time.

Ritter’s

You need to have a late night diner somewhere. The distance walking back always seemed so much further.

Doc’s and Cappy’s (Shadyside)

Squirrel Hill Cafe, AKA  The Cage and Aiello’s or Mineo’s (Squirrel Hill)

Tessaro’s, Pleasure Bar and Bloomfield Bridge Tavern (Bloomfield)

Everyone at least had one friend who lived in Bloomfield, Squirrel Hill or Shadyside. The neighborhoods near Oakland. Inevitably you probably spent a lot of time in at least one of these locations, and have some great memories of them.

The Pleasure Bar, for those not familiar, is not some strip club despite the name. It’s a great bar with fine Italian food available. One of the reasons I remember it fondly is that the last place I lived in Pittsburgh before leaving was two blocks away from it. At the time, Yuengling was still in the early stages of making its inroads to Western Pennsylvania, and the craft beer movement was still not much more than Sam Adams. The Pleasure Bar was one of the only places I could get Yuengling Black & Tan on draft.

Many nights were spent in the Squirrel Hill Cafe. Especially after I graduated. When a buddy got married this past September on the same day of the Pitt-Iowa football game, I was very late to the reception because I had stopped at the Cage to check on the game and have a beer since there was a bit of time between the wedding (pre-noon) and the reception — and the Cage was on the way.





What was the name of the strip bar on Baum Blvd. down the street from Graffiti? It was on the at the bottom of the hill when you turn right off of N.Craig. We went in there one day and the dancer was grooving to “Jeremy” by Pearl Jam. Ewww! Weird……Also, remember Drinkin’ N’ Talkin- Name of the Game? That was down Center Ave. a bit.

Comment by SilverPanther in NYC 12.05.11 @ 11:03 am

Also, I worked grounds crew for the university one summer and one of the guys I worked with had worked maintainance for years and told me it was a myth that one of the shitters up in the Cathedral had a window with a view. Disappointing to know that and the home plate story are both myths.

Comment by SilverPanther in NYC 12.05.11 @ 11:11 am

Silver, I think it was (looking over shoulder to see if girlfriend is around) “Anthony’s”. At least when I was around.

FYI, Doc’s was sold to Mario’s so technically it too is a thing fo the past.

Also, maybe it doesn’t fit as well with the rest of these item but Schennly Oval has a killer view and and/or a walk the man-made lake (or pretty ,much anywhere in that park…the whole place is under-rated, imho) are pretty good “family friendly” options if you don’t wanna do all bars and restaraunts.

Anyway, my vote would be in the following order:
1) Forbes Wall/Posvar home plate.
2) Schennly (the oval for the view is maybe best)
3) Dave and Andy’s
4) Pamelas
5) The O.

These add the most local character, distinctiveness I think. (Primanti’s is clsoe ‘cuz its so identified w Pittsburgh, but maybe more of a city-wide thing than an Oakland thing).

Comment by PantherP 12.05.11 @ 11:34 am

I live here in the south Hills and rarely go to any of those places. When I do go it’s usually with freinds or relatives from out of town. A few years ago, on the morning before a family wedding, I ran out to Oakland to “the O” for hotdogs and fries with two of couins. One now lives in Arizona, and the other from New Jersey saw a piece about “the O” on the food channel.

Comment by Justinian 12.05.11 @ 11:35 am

When I take my kids to campus which is about every other year, we hit the following:

1. Carnegie Museum of Natural History
2. Top of the Cathedral for the elevator ride up and view of campus including the Nationality rooms
3. The dirty O for the fries…with cheese.
4. The walk up to the Pete with all those steps including the escalators
5. The brick baseball wall from Forbes Field

Comment by TX Panther 12.05.11 @ 12:01 pm

Yeah that strip club was called ANthonys. My roomate was DJ there for a summer. Needless to say, one of the greatest summers of our lives.

Comment by PaulyP 12.05.11 @ 12:31 pm

I don’t know if its the one your thinking of but when I lived in N. Oakland (2006-2009) the local strip club was in between Baum and Centre on Morewood and its name was the Cricket Lounge.

Comment by pittdiser 12.05.11 @ 12:38 pm

Ahh the memories. Charlies/Mitchell’s gone. Peter’s is only half the size it once was. Doc’s is under new management and a new name. Sad times.

Comment by Tossing Thabeets 12.05.11 @ 12:44 pm

Love the inclusion of Phantom of the Attic! I usually got my quick comic book fix at Gus’. However, a few times a semester I’d hit the Phantom and go to the Chinese restaurant around the corner …. where I’d sit on my ass eating sweet and sour chicken and read the stack of comics. Ahh. The good old days.

Comment by nevin 12.05.11 @ 12:47 pm

I always go into Heinz Chapel as that was the wedding site for my parents and a bunch of my friends. I gave a eulogy there once for of my oldest and closest friends so it holds a special place in my heart.

Then I go into the CoL and just sit for a awhile.

I have lunch at the PAA then always go back to the Mardis Gras bar in Shadyside. I spent my youth in there, The Encore (where I bartended for a few years) and Taylor’s. The first time I went back to the Mardis Gras after enlisting, over a 15 year period, the owner whipped out my old bar tab for $115 that I had inadvertently walk on. I paid it and started another – which I said I’d pay later.

I didn’t drink often in Oakland as I grew up and always had apartments in Shadyside but when I did it was at Frankie Gustine’s. I spent a lot of time on the CMU campus also.

If it’s nice weather I go up to Flagstaff Hill where I remember listening to so much music on warm summer/fall evenings.

I’m very much looking forward to seeing how well “The Porch” restaurant has been done in Schenley Plaza.

But the PITT campus and Shadyside have changed drastically since the mid-70s when was last there and, at least in the campus’ case, much for the better. Shadyside has lost all the charm that it had before becoming an outdoor shopping mall.

Comment by Reed 12.05.11 @ 12:49 pm

Chas – I have to tell you this story.

My best friend since second grade always had two paper routes and with the money he earned bought every Marvel and DC comic that came out. He also bought every back editions he could get. He had over 3000 original comics, all backed with cardboard and in plastic sleeves. It took up two whole walls in his living room. We’d sit in his room high as kites listening to music and reading comics for hours.

Then, in 1978 when he was 23 he “found Jesus” and was born again… and felt compelled to give away all his worldly goods.

No shit – he gave away over 3000 comics that would be worth a fortune now. I was stationed in Hawaii but when I came home on leave and he told me that I literally couldn’t believe it. we laugh about it now… well, at least I do.

My son now has tons of comics stored up in my attic rafters and he goes to the conventions, etc.

Comment by Reed 12.05.11 @ 1:05 pm

Anthony’s had pizza a quarter a piece…nice deal for dinner and a show. Also remember the bouncers from Chiefs and the Luna hating each other and fighting in the street on a couple occassions. Anyone remember “Barefoot Bob” from the SOD? Kinda like an alcoholic “Rainman” who never wore shoes.

Comment by Marley 12.05.11 @ 1:27 pm

The Cricket Lounge.

Comment by Snala The Panther 12.05.11 @ 1:35 pm

I remember the pizza at Anthony’s. We always called it An-hony’s because the sign was missing the “T”.

Comment by hugh green 12.05.11 @ 2:12 pm

The pizza was more like toasted wonder bread with some ragu and cheese but for a quarter, I couldn’t complain!

Comment by Marley 12.05.11 @ 2:24 pm

Marley – man, was Darrel the bouncer from the Luna a character. One of my weirdest and most fun memories of there was him busting a move to “Macho Man”

It’s been a long time since North Oakland for me. Charlie’s for a cheese steak was a must at the end of the night. Now, when I’m in for a rare hoops game, I hit the Pitt Shop and Uncle Sam’s OR Primanti’s. We go to the Carnegie museum if I have time and my kids are with me or the Cathedral if we don’t.

Comment by KeyboardKev 12.05.11 @ 2:28 pm

Thanks, Chas. Participating in, and reading these Top 10 lists of Pitt/Oakland has been a nice throwback for me. Real wanderings down Memory Lane.

Comment by Lou 12.05.11 @ 2:30 pm

I’m old — I remember the original Pamela’s before it was much more than a greasy burger joint on Forbes Ave in Squirrel Hill (paper plates and all) and the only attraction was Centipede.

Good nod on Pleasure Bar. It’s such a dinstinctively Pittsburgh joint, almost like Big Jim’s in Greenfield. Good food and a magnet for family get-togethers.

Shadyside these days feels mostly like going to the mall. Hotlicks is missed.

Comment by Ghost of Hornman 12.05.11 @ 2:34 pm

KeyboardKev, the North Oakland we knew is sadly long gone! Drove up before a bball game this year to get a cheesesteak at Charlie’s (remember when it was G’s?!? Now THAT guy was a character!) and they’re closed. The place that was Thirsty’s is different as well but they still have the Oakland mural on the wall so at least that brought a smile to my face. Thankfully Uncle Sam’s is still going strong!

Comment by Marley 12.05.11 @ 2:59 pm

Teleropa – Bob Marley Posters, Bead Doors, Glass Pipes, Lava Lamps, incense.

University Beer Distributor – open til midnight through a bulletproof cage.

King of the Hill – Accepts Laminated Library Cards

Larry and Carols – Love the wedges

Comment by Freebird 12.05.11 @ 4:19 pm

Winners Chinese restaurant where they never carded and would load the beer right into your backpack for easy sneaking into the Towers!

Comment by Marley 12.05.11 @ 4:46 pm

O fries!

Comment by Ronald 12.05.11 @ 5:15 pm

Does anybody remember Zelda’s? It used to be right next to the O…where Five Guys is now. When I arrived on campus my freshman year my roommate and several other friends from our floor went straight to Zelda’s. The “ID Checker” let me and my roommate/friends in with just our Pitt ID (keep in mind we were freshman and barely able to vote). We lived there for the first week or two of school. But that all quickly ended. I’ll never forget sitting in Towers one night in the fall and hearing the place get raided by the cops. Completely heartbreaking at the time. I’ll never forget hearing/seeing that from the Towers.

Comment by upittman 12.05.11 @ 7:43 pm

Hey Reed you sound like an old guy like me. Taylors in Shadyside was our hang out — first legal drink there (but not of course the first time served there). Frankie Gustine’s was in its waning days. Saw Bruce Springsteen’ band (not called E street then) open for someone else on Flagstaff in 1973. Zelda’s opened during my time — it was a fern bar. Pete’s Pub opened about that time too. Stroh’s beer was making a big move into the city (and we were thankful for something other than Iron or Tech) and so was Guinness. And Flo’s records was famous for albums – 3 for $5 in the cut out bin. Only one Primanti’s — in the strip –opened at midnight. Sunseri was a place in the strip — not a failed quarterback.

Comment by velvil 12.05.11 @ 8:29 pm

I always go up to Mt Washington. One of the best views in the country.

Comment by TigerPaul 12.05.11 @ 8:47 pm

Anyone from the early 70’s remember Beto’s Pizza, out on Forbes Avenue, between Pitt and CMU? They made their pizzas in a square shape. Non-traditional, but really good from what my 40-something taste buds remember. There was a house/commune next to them painted bright colors, where the Kari Krishna used to hang out.

Comment by Lou 12.05.11 @ 9:36 pm

Club Laga (now apartments)
Ginza Japanese Restaurant (anyone from 2003-2007 may know what I am talking about)
Cardiac sticks at Hemingway’s (I <3 Lynne)
Matrix for penny drinks on Thursday night ($5 limo made the night relatively inexpensive)
SAE on Halloween (and I am not SAE)

Comment by Todd Gack 12.06.11 @ 1:22 am

I loved Beto’s pizza, not as good as Mineo’s on Murray Ave but much more accessible when drunk.

Velvil – we probably spent time together in Taylor’s then. I had an apartment on Ellsworth for 3 years in the mid-70s but was hanging out on Walnut Street since I was 13 or so. I was tall for my age and had a driver’s license that I found that said I was 22 years old – the name on it was “Harry Stumpf”, no kidding, so I could actually go into The Pizza Pub and the other bars and drink pitchers of beer for $2. That place became the Raspberry Rhinoceros and lost it’s street charm.

Most people don’t realize how very unique Shadyside was back then – in the late 60s & early 70s it was much like Greenwich Village and you could just wander around talking with people on the sidewalks up until the bars closed at 2:00 am. Then you could go to the Mardis Gras or the Gaslight Club and drink illegally until morning.

Comment by Reed 12.06.11 @ 7:12 am

I just about proposed to my wife at Zelda’s (fortunately, waited for a more appropriate time) and we married at Heinz Chapel. Don’t forget Frankie Gustine’s (the class rest. at Pitt). Hadden Hall $1 pitchers (no glasses, guys just carried around the plastic pitchers).

Peters Pub story… I was dating one of the Golden Girls and TD was enjoying the company of her younger sister. Someone had taken TD’s jacket, and it was cold outside. He borrowed mine and I drank at Peters for about 3 hrs. while my jacket was privy to the carnal pleasures of the world. I always had a special relationship with that old bomber jacket!

Lines of people dressed up for the (I believe) was the Friday night showing of The Rocky Horror Picture Show.

Always thought walking the steps to Soldiers and Sailors was a humbling experience.

Friday night pep rallies on 5th Avenue with the cheerleaders and Pitt Band. The Band would “snake” through busses on 5th, the Towers (broke lots of windows in the Tower doors), the form up again and play HTP, Victory Song and more.

Comment by CompLit 12.06.11 @ 11:25 am

P.S. almost forgot the Luna Lounge!

Comment by CompLit 12.06.11 @ 11:27 am

Reed, lived in shadyside last 2 years at Pitt. Was very much as you say. Can’t find a reason now to go there when back in town.

Comment by velvil 12.06.11 @ 1:04 pm

lived on North Craig, just past Chief’s (guy was shot and killed there–led to some bad shot and beer jokes). Rudy’s (predecessor to Thirsty’s), Luna, Hadden Hall, the Keg, Peter’s, Dirty O, Zelda’s and Danny’s (pre-Calico’s).

Also got married at Heinz Chapel. two tours of duty (undergrad in 70’s; Law School in 80’s). Can’t remember name of crowded bar on Fifth we used to drink at before marching up Cardiac to Pitt Stadium. Anyone? Soldiers & Sailors and the Mosque (with some great concerts). Intramural football at Pitt Stadium. Great times, great memories. HTP

Comment by Bossdaws 12.06.11 @ 3:02 pm

SilverPanther – the toilet with a view is definitely NOT a myth. There is a bathroom on the 39th floor which I, uhh, patronized one day when they left the elevator to the top on by accident. It’s there and let me tell you, it’s magical.

Comment by Eric 12.06.11 @ 8:54 pm

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